Nieuws
06 november 2013

Robert Parker proeft Clos Saint Jean

uit erobertparker.com

Wine Advocate #209 - October 2013

Review by Jeb Dunnuck

 

"Always one of the highlight visits during my time spent working in the Southern Rhone, Clos Saint-Jean, which includes over 100 acres of prime terroir in Châteauneuf-du-Pape (mostly in the south), is run by brothers Pascal and Vincent Maurel, with consulting help from the incredibly talented Philippe Cambie. ... While the winemaking here is often labeled as modern, it is actually relatively traditional, with the Grenache almost always aged in tank and only the Mourvèdre and Syrah seeing time in larger, 500-600 liter oak barrels, or demi-muids. In addition, the cuvees may also incluide small amounts of whole-cluster fermentation. Regardless of how you classify it, the results speak for themselves and there are few wiines in the world I'd rather drink."

 

2011 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Rating: 92

Drink: 2013-2021

The 2011s are superb across the board and certainly, at the top end, easily some of the most impressive wines in the vintage. Nevertheless, they're all stunning and readers should latch onto as many of these as they can. Starting off, the 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (roughly 75% Grenache with the balance Syerah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese) is a fleshy, forward effort that offers up classic aromas and flavors of kirsch, ground herbs, white pepper and licorice, as well as full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. It will impress for upward of a decade. Drink now-2021.

 

2012 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Rating: (91-93)

Drink: 2014-2022

Looking first at the 2012s, which were all still in barrel at the time of this tasting, the classic 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a rocking base cuvee that gives up loads of blackberry, licorice and Provencal herbs with a ripe, seamless style. Borderline voluptuous, with medium to full-bodied richness, it is a pleasure-bent effort that should shine on release. drink 2014-2022.

 

2012 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Rating: 92

Drink: 2013-2016

We finished the tasting with the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne, with the Roussanne and Grenache Blanc aged in neutral barrel and everything else in tank, it offers up notions of quince, white currants and flowers to go with a balanced, clean feel on the palate. Possessing fantastic purity and terrific acidity, it should drink nicely for 2-3 years. Drink now-2016.

 

2011 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina

Rating: 99

Drink: 2015-2031

More backward and reserved, the 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank-aged GHrenache and 40% Mourvèdre that was aged in 600-liter demi-muids. Spectacular, not only in this vintage, but in any vintage, it offers up incredible notes of blackberry, fig, tree bark, mineral, spice-cake and pepper that flow to a full-bodied, seamless and perfectly proportioned palate. It possesses upward to two decades of longevity, and the only wine in the vintage to come anywhere close to this level of quality, also from the same producer, is the Combe des Fous. Hats off to the Clos Saint Jean team for this amazing achievement. Drink 2015-2031.

 

2012 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina

Rating: (97-100)

Drink: 2016-2032

Thje largest-scaled and structured of the lineup, the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank-aged Grenache and 40% barrel-aged (demi-muid) Mourvèdre. deep, concentrated and dense, with a massive core of dark berry and currant fruit, graphite, ground pepper, pan drippings and dusty earth aromas and flavors, this blockbuster is incredibly full-bodied in the vintage, yet never puts a foot wrong. My guess is that it will require a handful of years in the cellar and then age gracefully for two decades. Drink 2016-2032.

 

2011 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape la Combe des Fous

Rating: 98

Drink: 2014-2026

Boasting incredible aromatics, and a drop-dead gorgeous wine, the 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape la Combe des Fous checks in as a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarese. Exotic and insanely perfumed, with aromas of kirsch, blackberry, exotic pepper, lavender and sandalwood (among other things), this full-bodied beauty hits the palate with brilliant richness and depth, masses of fine tannin and incredible length on the finish. A spectacular effort that transcends the vintage, it will thrill for 15 years or more. Don't miss it! Drink 2014-2026.

 

2012 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape la Combe des Fous

Rating: (95-97)

Drink: 2016-2032

The smoking good 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape la Combe des Fous (60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest Muscardin, Vaccarese and Cinsault) is a structured, serious wine that gives up notions of blackberry, currants, melted licorice and assorted meaty nuances that flow to a full-bodied, seamless wine that has terrific fruit intensity, masses of fine tannin and a blockbuster finish. Give it 3-4 years in the cellar and drink it through 2032.

 

2012 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum (magnum only)

Rating: (98-100)

Drink 2016-2032

A wine that consistently knocks it out of the park, the Maurel's Sanctus Sanctorum is a blend of 100% Grenache that is both a vineyard selection and a cellar selection. The 2012 certainly looks as good as the 2010 (and the 2009) did at this point and offers up a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavors, with notions of kirsch, blackberry, graphite, ground pepper and spice all emerging from the glass. Full-bodied and deeply concentrated, with a stacked mid-palate and ultra-fine tannin, this seamless beauty will need a handful of years in the cellar and totally thrill for two decades or more. Drink 2016-2032.

 

2011 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Rating: 94

Drink 2013-2027

More rich and layered, with fantastic notes of blackberry liqueur, strawberry, garrigue and lavender, the 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes (85% tank-aged Grenache and the balance Syrah and Mourvèdre, fermented with some stem inclusion) is full-bodied, beautifully concentrated and has pure, polished tannin framing the finish nicely. It's a gorgeous, even elegant, 2011 that will drink well for 12-15 years. Drink now-2027.

 

2012 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Rating: (92-95)

Drink: 2014-2024

Made from older vines and a tank-aged blend of roughly 85% Grenache and the balance Syrah and Mourvèdre, the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes has additional levels of kirsch, garrigue, ground herbs and black raspberry as well as a full-bodied, decadently textured profile on the palate. Despite the richness level here, it remains gorgeously fresh and even elegant. Enjoy it over the coming 10-12 years. Drink now-2024.

 

 

 

 

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